Digital Textile Design: Director(s) of the Fashion School

Digital Textile Design: Director(s) of the Fashion School J.R. Campbell.

Simon told me about this guy, J.R. Campbell, Glasgow and his pictorial digitally printed pieces. I have always loved the way that Zandra Rhodes printed her designs in the shape of the garment. Here, J.R. Campbell is doing something similar but in an up to date, even forward looking way. His pieces can be seen as art, which hangs on the wall or is worn as a Kimono, jacket etc.

Collars, pipes and tankers

Thinking about the tanker as a container, wrapped in pipes of all sorts of different sizes, colours and purposes, I began to create three dimensional structures, chrysalises, samples for lighting perhaps.

Firstly, I sampled extensively with many fabrics, analysing their stretching abilities and whether they gave me the quality I was looking for. The effects were varied. Some fabrics were just too heavy, others had insufficient stretch. Eventually, after considerable research, I found a stretch silk satin, a silk and lycra mix. Creating a striking line design from the back of a tanker, I printed sample pieces of the silk satin, exploring what I could create. I also sampled to see if the silk lycra would print and dye with Procions. It dyed and printed perfectly. I then sampled to see if the colours I was using would discharge and was pleased with the results.

I much preferred the matt reverse side of the fabric and loved the heaviness and drape.

One piece of heavy strimming wire has been threaded through this piece, tensioning it into pockets at each end.

This design has two pieces of strimming wire tensioned into the piece.

Samples in deep plum. One and two pipes have been threaded in different positions.

Several pipes are used to create the rust sample. I can see this on a much larger scale and one of my challenges is to create a huge structure. Finding the 'pipes' with the right firmness and stiffness to enable them to be tensioned is one of my problems. Recently I have discovered a linen with lycra, a stretch linen. It is gorgeous and I can't wait to sample with that. I am thinking of structures which could survive outside, or tougher structures which could be waterproofed, perhaps.

COLLARS OR LIGHTS ETC.

Using the shape of the backs of tankers, I then created two ideas for collars, or lighting with the intention of laser cutting them later in fabric. I printed the shaped in various sizes, cut them out and collated them into shapes. So many wonderful ideas here.

This shape is created using a design taken from the rear of a tanker.


I can see so much potential in this black and white shape. So dynamic, but then I adore pure colour, black and white.

A design for a neck piece, light or larger structure taken from the rear of the 'CB' tanker.

I now must source fabric with which to make the piece.

All images are copyright. Thank you.

A day in London

My day in London was peculiar from the beginning.

I peaked into the ticket office at the underground. No one there. As I delved into my bag for money, suddenly he appeared as if from nowhere and I jumped.

'I thought I was in Harry Potter', I laughed.

'I'm not that ugly', he said.

'Did you use flue powder?', I asked, and we laughed. He was so helpful and as I left, he asked seriously,

'Are you an actress?'

'Many say I am a drama queen, but no'

Hysterical! It cheered me up.

I set off for The Hayward Gallery.

As I waited for my train, I took these pictures at Euston underground

I was wandering along the South Bank towards the gallery when a woman accosted me, squinting at me sideways and pointing a finger, she said.

'You're a film star, aren't you?'

I insisted I wasn't but she wasn't convinced, pointing and looking at me knowingly.

I then bumped into a friend from Dolton, the village where I live. I told her my weird happenings and she said she wasn't surprised. She said I really stood out and looked special. And there I was in my usual scruff gear. Perhaps it was because I was at a Healing Weekend and had been soaking up the energies? Who knows!!

I had been drawn to 'Walking in My Mind', a huge exhibition at the Hayward Gallery, after a friend told me about it. I had been delving into the deepest recesses of my consciousness in my studies of 'Zen' and was confused about conceptual art. No photography was allowed, except outside, which was a shame.

There are just too many exhibits to discuss but

Thomas Hirschhorn's endless series of cardboard caves covered in brown parcel tape was an uncomfortable, almost fairground experience with uneven soft, disorientating floors, figures covered in silver foil with extended 'umbilical chords', an inner environment of about ten caves.

'To me, the cave is in your brain, the cave is in your mind...You have to build this cave in your mind and to struggle with what happens in this cave, in confronting it with the world'.

It was the work and mind of Yayoi Kusama which most captivated me though.

Here I am in Yayoi's room of scarlet balloons and white polka dots, a stolen photo before I was pounced upon by security.

'My artwork is an expression of my life, particularly of my mental disease. My art originates from hallucinations only I can see. I translate the hallucinations and obsessional images that plague me into sculptures and paintings'.

Eventually, after showing her art in America, in 1973 she returned to Japan where she chose to settle permanently in a psychiatric hospital in Tokyo.

Kusama started painting polka dots when she was about ten years old. This motif, which has remained a central feature of her work, emerged as the result of recurring hallucinations in which the artist found herself and all her surroundings covered in the same pattern. She has said that the experience made her feel as if she was revolving 'in the infinity of endless time and the absoluteness of space' and sees her life as a 'dot lost among a million other dots'.

There was something more than disturbing about the work. Something questioning. To be so immersed in her psyche, her life of polka dots, was uncomfortable, but powerful too.

Chiharu Shiota's gallery was an oppressive spiders web, a huge cat's cradle, someone else's walk through nightmare.

'''when I dream...I feel the dream as reality. I can't distinguish between dream and reality. When I wake up, I have the feeling I'm still dreaming'.

There were many others, and I left the exhibition almost questioning my own sanity. 'what is normal? What is acceptable? I left with the understanding that in art, one may delve as deeply into the subconscious as one wishes or needs.

NEW DESIGNERS

In the afternoon, my main reason for my visit to London was to explore New Designers.

I love 'New Designers' because it is such good research of what is being created in Art Colleges. I was obviously interested in seeing the work on the Falmouth University College stand, which I felt compared very favourably with other colleges. I love to look at Farnham because that is where I did my B.A. and Bath, where I studied for one year. I took two photos only, I think of Bucks University.

But what I took from the day, after enjoying exploring the stands, wondering at the diversity of the work; the excitement and anticipation of the students and opportunities which had already presented themselves, was that almost everything has been done before in some form or another.

We, as designers, should never be restricted by that familiarity, or that our idea 'has been done before'. Our interpretation may develop into something unique and exciting, innovative and unusual. We must always 'follow our noses' to see where it leads us.

'

Cows

Plans are made, so much to do to create my hangings - and then - I injure my back, hurt whilst camping in Milan and not dealt with. Agony. I have not been able to do any work this week.

I am doing what I can.

One morning, unable to sleep, I finally gave in at about 5.30 am. and I set off with my camera. The sun was rising. It was beautiful.I was enjoying my morning with a herd of heifers, remembering my cows, Melody, a contrary Jersey cow, a person whom we loved dearly. Salefka, another temperamental Jersey was used to being milked from both sides and she kicked. I bought a calf, barely a week old, a Hereford Friesian, Edwina, whom I fed with an enormous bottle.

I hung over a 5-bar gate, awed at the beauty of the glistening morning, my expert moooos drawing a small herd of young heifers.

I was caught up with the sun shining on their drool, their feathery whiskers, laughing at their curiosity and personalities.

An ear - backlit by the morning sun.

'Is it edible?' Cows explore with their tongues.

The detail of the inside 0f a cows mouth is incredible in this one.

Golden and scarlet whiskers.

A nostril. Quite a Zen shape which is what I love. A cow is exploring my face and I manage to capture this wonderful image of her nostril, a swirling echo of other imagery of pipes in fabric and spontaneous drawing in meditation.

This, to me is the wonder and beauty of design.

Drool, like dew in the early morning.

We have created many vegetarians in our time with the animals. It is true. Many children think meat is something bought in a supermarket, 'food on a nappy', as Mel says - could be made from anything. Children are horrified that they eat these beautiful animals, as sentient as cats and dogs. I love livestock but one cannot avoid the killing. I had to give it up.

My point is that all events in our lives make us the people we are. The animals are part of my design process, my design thinking, my own sentience, part of my Soul.

Images are copyright.

PLANT, WASTE AND RECYCLING SHOW

Whale Tankers

Whale Tankers were showing at the Plant, Waste and Recycling Show in Paignton and invited me to come. I had such fun!!

It was held on the seafront at Paignton and had been running for 23 years.

They had a shiny display of Whale Combination Tankers, used for Gully and Cesspool Emptying, Jetting and Drain Cleaning. How would we survive without them? We take so much for granted. Would our lack of body waste disposal cause outbreaks of Cholera and other diseases, as in some of the African countries? Not only are the tankers, to me anyway, works of art, they are extremely well fitted for their task. A tanker body, I am told, can cost anything from about £94,000 to over £300.000 and can be built to the customer’s requirements. I wonder what a ‘slippy sheet’ is?

All tankers must comply with the Pressure Equipment Directive, 1997 and Whale offer a National Service Cover which is available always.

Did you know there are:-

· Vacuum Tankers
· Artic Trailers
· Sewer Cleansing
· Dirty Water Recycling Units
· MegaWhale P.D. Pump Sets
· Bespoke Units
· Drinking Water Bowsers
· ADR?
· Trailer Pump Sets
· StreetWashers
· Hooklift
· Deep Lifters
· Second hand Tankers, (Reborn Whales).
And all sorts of other equipment with parts.

There is the ‘KiloWhale’ , 'KaiserWhale' and ‘MegaWhale’ for Deep Sewer Cleaning and Maintenance. Their second hand tankers are called 'Born Again Whales'.

Whale have won several awards for the care of the environment, i.e. birds and wild life, on their factory site. I am hoping to visit them soon.

The 'Kilowhale'




The 'Kaiserwhale' (detail of the back)

'Sewer Cleaning Hose' is inprinted on the pipes. I have become interested in using the pipes in my textile designs. Where will I be led with this research, I wonder?

Ravo UK Sweeping Machines

Ravo had strategically placed plants and small conifers in front of their sweepers which Jazzie was particularly interested in!

The latest Ravo Sweeping Machines use Natural Gas again creating a cleaner world. Their handsome luxury model was produced for shows only, but they have had so many orders for it that they are putting it into production. I thought that this machine was too grand for Britain. They said they had sold none here, some in Holland, Germany, Scandinavia but - 90% of their sales go to - Switzerland! Having lived in Switzerland for 2 1/2 years, I was not at all surprised. They are fanatically fussy about their roads being clean. Ravo also produce beach cleaners.

The sweeping machines we see on our streets are also used on liners, in factories etc. The UK representative, John Wellicome, allowed me to name the luxury Ravo and I called it 'Ronnie Ravo'. Sad! I bet he says that to all the girls!!

The luxury 'Ronnie Ravo'

Ron Smith Recycling and Star Separation Systems Ltd.

I could never have imagined that a skip hire company could be so interesting. They represent Star Separation Systems Ltd., one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of industrial waste separation and reclamation equipment; feed conveyors, hoppers, trammels, picking stations and discharge conveyors. The huge system he showed me will separate all wood, hardcore and a large magnet lifts out the metals all of which are recycled.

Ian Hutchins, Managing Director was so helpful. 80% of skip waste is recycled. They supply skips from 2 to 40 yards and the separation system costs around £92,000. He told me that it will take under six months to recoup that money. Wow! There is a considerable amount of money in recycling!

The 'Trammel' separates the finer dust and stone from the rubble. All is recycled. Wood is chipped and used as industrial fuel.

What was fascinating about this show was how enthusiastic the representatives were when talking about their particular 'baby'. I was in a world I had not considered before but most of the guys I spoke to were funny and extremely knowledgeable

I loved it!

Did you know that the lorries which collect recycling have a line of little windows or grills towards the top to tell the operator when his vehicle is almost full.

THE TANKER PIPES

So many of the tankers are embelished with pipes of different sorts and useages, i.e. drain pipes, sewer pipes etc. I wanted to see what would happen if I threaded pipe into selected fabrics in different ways and am only at the initial stages of this experiment still with much to explore.

I thought I would add a few images of trials done today.

I had spotted a black and white striped drain tanker on the motorway at Bristol but was too eager to get home to follow it. I started with the old gold drain tanker which I had converted to black and white, looking at the opposing black and white stripes and chevrons within the round back of the drain tanker.

I began to experiment with the image

And then after spotting tankers with pipes of all sorts in strange places and for different purposes, I just had to experiment with what I could do with those! How can I represent them in fabric?

THE EXPLORATIONS.

My first experiment was with silk crepe georgette. I used two pipes here, one down each side of the silk. I did not feel this worked because the fabric was too transparent and the pipe was visible. Also, I feel contrasting colour is needed to show up the 'journey' of the pipes, the twist.

I moved on to Polyester Jersey to see what happens when contrast is used on a very stretchy fabric. I found my initial experiments intriguing. This one is a long piece using one pipe on one side only. I had been looking at the brake pipes also and felt an affinity with those in this example.

In this sample, I inserted the pipe on the diagonal, the bias of the fabric, and could see this as a collar or neck piece.



A longer and larger neck piece.

I imagined this piece as an idea for the front of a jacket perhaps. This piece has more fabric and one piece of pipe.

Here I am beginning to experiment with more pipes. this sample has three pipes inserted on the bias of the cloth. I find this sample exciting, thinking of a huge sculpture or teepee shape. Or tiny as an earing.

Searching for different thicknesses of pipe, I have found that the 'curling' works by using strimming line, to make tiny forms, such as earings etc. I have found giant pipes too to experiment with large pieces.

In this sample, I forced the pipe to be very taut in the fabric, thus forcing it to curve even more. At this stage, I see this as a feature neck piece on an evening gown?? Could it be a 'back' feature

Lots more to do but I was pleased with my day. I have begun to work with linen and heavy sisal rope. This hasn't really worked though. There has to be stretch in the fabric. I am now going to see what I can do with silk lycra.

Carol's copyright.

PARADISE PARK, HALE

The Big Owl. There is so much pattern in these birds. Paradise Park, Hale is a wonderful place to go. I now feel I know some of the birds there I have been so often. They have an ongoing conservation programme and many of their birds have been donated by people who could no longer cope with an adult bird. Many are found malnourished by the R.S.P.C.A.


The White Owl.

Feathers through the mesh.

One of the characters!